At first glance, readers may be surprised to learn that I paid “only” about $8,000 for this Cartier blooming flower brooch. That reaction is understandable, but it is also where market confusion often begins.
Cartier was not one monolithic entity. In the mid-20th century, Cartier New York, Cartier Paris, and Cartier London each operated with a degree of independence (with some London experimental pieces bringing millions), and the market still reflects those distinctions today. While Cartier New York pieces from the 1950s through the 1980s are beautifully made and highly collectible, they generally do not command the same prices as comparable Cartier Paris examples. Likewise, 18-karat gold always brings a premium over 14-karat gold.
This brooch is a fine and authentic Cartier New York creation — numbered, signed, and thoughtfully engineered with each petal numbered from one to six on the back so you can fold it properly to transform it from an open blossom to an enclosed petal. It is accompanied by a GIA paper stating the yellow sapphire is unheated, approximately 7 carats and of Sri Lankan origin. Sri Lanka is known as the best source for yellow sapphires, with Burma and Kashmir being the best for blue sapphires. Plus, it has 3 carats of extremely fine, white, clean diamonds.
Had this piece been made in Paris and executed in 18-karat gold, its value would likely be double. This does not make the piece inferior; it simply reflects the nuances of the Cartier market.
Understanding these distinctions is the difference between overpaying, underestimating, or recognizing value exactly where it sits. This is where Katrina’s and my expertise comes in. We expect to sell this piece for a 15% to 25% profit. Of course, retail approximate value will be more.
