The Tudor Brand of Rolex
I refrain from writing about one of our true loves, vintage watches, but had to share a fairly recent phenomenon in the field of watch collecting.
Tudor (by Rolex) has really hit is stride in the vintage world and is one of the most-discussed names in vintage watch collecting. For years it was viewed simply as an affordable alternative to Rolex.
Circa 1930, Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf introduced Tudor as a lower-priced companion brand. The name carried aristocratic overtones, but the goal was practical: provide reliable watches for everyman who could not justify the cost of a Rolex.
Early examples were signed “Rolex Tudor,” and shared Rolex-made cases, crowns and bracelets while using less-expensive movements. Despite the connection, collectors long regarded Tudor as Rolex’s poor stepchild. Vintage Tudors sold for modest sums with Rolex always higher.
Around 2005, vintage Rolex watches became very expensive, so collectors started looking more closely at Tudor. They discovered many of the same design cues, a similar heritage, and in some cases, many of the same components.
The brand’s recent revival increased interest even further. As Tudor established itself as a successful standalone brand without the Rolex name on the dial, collectors became even more interested.
Today, common early Rolex Tudor watches can still be found in the $300 to $500 range. At the upper end, scarce models such as gilt-dial Big Crown no crown guard Tudor Submariners often bring $5,000 to $15,000 or more.
Tudor established itself as a standalone brand without the Rolex name on the dial, and collectors were excited.
Left: Modern Tudor, retail $4,025. Right: This model, in poor condition, $1,000. In mint condition with box and papers, value would be $100,000.
